Doggin'
The Blue Ridge Parkway
Begun as a Depression-era public works
project, the Blue Ridge Parkway was America's first rural parkway.
When ultimately completed it was also the nation's longest -
469 miles of uninterrupted mountain roads linking Shenandoah
National Park in the north to the Great Smokey Mountains National
Park in the south. The Blue Ridge Parkway is far and away the
most popular destination in the National Park System - more than
19 million recreation visits per year. One of the explanations
for its enduring popularity could be that the Blue Ridge is also
one of America's most dog-friendly destinations.
Designed for leisurely motoring, the speed limit never exceeds
45 mph on the Parkway and roadside parking is permitted on the
shoulders the entire way. Much of the beautiful road is lined
by low stone walls. At times the route shrinks to scarcely 25
yards in width. You will never see a billboard and scarcely any
development. Parks and recreation areas - several spanning thousands
of acres - appear roughly every 30 miles, although most are located
in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the 355 miles that comprise the
northern part of the route. The lower 114 miles wind through
the powerful Black Mountains, named for the dark green spruce
that cover the massive slopes, and they offer more limited leg-stretching
opportunities.
There is no reason for you and the dog to enjoy the Blue Ridge
solely through your car windows. Dogs are allowed on the more
than 100 varied trails throughout the Blue Ridge Parkway, ranging
from easy valley strolls to demanding mountain summit hikes.
Travelers and canine hikers can spend a week motoring on the
Parkway and barely sample all its treasures. And it is no trouble
to slow down and take as much time as you like on the trails
- all the nine first come, first served campgrounds on the Parkway
welcome dogs. You will find many of the inns and restaurants
in the small towns that flank the Parkway to be dog-friendly
as well.
Tracing the route from the north, an early highlight comes within
the first ten miles at the Humpback Rocks where the Greenstone
nature trail leads to the unusually shaped boulders. A strenuous
climb accesses the Appalachian Trail in another two miles. Canine
hikers will look forward to the Peaks of Otter, in the vicinity
of the highest mountains on the Virginia section of the Parkway,
beginning around the 75-mile mark. Three mountains - Sharp Top
(3,875 feet), Flat Top (4,004 feet), and Harkening Hill (3,364
feet) comprise the Peaks of Otter, a popular hiking destination
since Colonial days when Thomas Jefferson was an enthusiastic
visitor. The 4.4-mile trail to the Flat Top summit is graded
most of the way until jumbled rocks provide athletic dogs a tail-wagging
workout.
Also in the Peaks of Otter are a quick loop hike threading through
rhododendron and mountain laurel on Onion Mountain and the 1.6-mile
loop of the Fallingwater Cascades National Scenic Trail. Both
offer splendid views in exchange for moderate effort. At the
167-mile mark comes Rocky Knob, with 15 miles of trails across
4,800 acres. The marquee walk here is the rugged 10.8-mile Rock
Castle Gorge National Recreation Trail. Just down the road is
picturesque Mabry Mill with an easy, self-guiding trail spiced
with interpretive exhibits and in-season demonstrations on rural
Appalachian life. Water-powered Mabry Mill is the most photographed
landmark on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
The first canine hiking after the Parkway crosses the Virginia
state line into North Carolina comes on Cumberland Knob at the
217.5-mile mark. A quick 15-minute loop here leads to the knob
and a more challenging 2-mile loop that traces Gully Creek. Next
up is 7,000-acre Doughton Park, the largest recreation area on
the Blue Ridge Parkway. More than 30 miles of trail and a dog-friendly
campground are the prime attractions here.
The Moses H. Cone Memorial Park is a popular stopping point for
relaxing or exploring. Many miles of horse and carriage trails
jump off from the Historic Cone Manor House and many more trails
crisscross neighboring Julian Price Memorial Park, which includes
Price Lake, one of the few lakes along the Parkway. Even if hiking
isn't on your itinerary when you reach this spot, you will want
to stop and sit on the Manor House lawn with your dog and take
in the views. In another 10 miles you cross the Linn Cove Viaduct,
an engineering marvel skirting the side of Grandfather Mountain.
Ground was broken on the Blue Ridge Parkway on September 11,
1935 at Cumberland Knob on the North Carolina-Virginia border,
near the mid-point of the proposed route. By 1967 all but seven
and one-half of its 469 miles were complete. The final section,
around the rocky slopes of Grandfather Mountain, one of the world's
oldest mountains, would not be finished until 1987. To finish
the Parkway without massive cuts and fills on the fragile mountainside
would call for the most complicated concrete bridge ever built
- the serpentine Linn Viaduct. The 12 bridges of the Viaduct
were constructed from the top down at an elevation of 4100 feet
to eliminate the need for a pioneer road. In fact, the only trees
cut down during the entire project were those directly beneath
the roadbed. The only construction on the ground was the drilling
of seven permanent piers upon which the Viaduct rests. Exposed
rock was even covered to present staining from the concrete epoxy
binding the precast sections. To further minimize the intrusion
on the mountain, concrete mixes were tinted with iron oxide to
blend with existing outcroppings. Trails lead to views underneath
this engineering marvel and access the 13.5-mile Tanawha Trail
from Beacon Heights to Julian Price Park. You and the dog can
pick your way along an interpretive trail to close-up views of
the Viaduct.
A most-anticipated highlight of the Blue Ridge Parkway will be
the upcoming Linville Gorge, one of the most remote locations
in the Appalachians. Unblazed trails lead deep into the wilderness
but most canine hikers will stick to the two main hiking trails
surrounding Linville Falls. Erwins View Trail is a sporty walk
that takes in four distinct overlooks of the plunging waters
in its .8-mile journey. More challenging is the hike on the opposite
side of the water into the gorge that descends through a virgin
hemlock forest via a switchback to the water's edge beneath the
Falls. This is a great place for a doggie dip.
South of Linville Falls the elevations climb and the canine hiking
opportunities fade away. Craggy Pinnacle Trail at 364.4 miles
is a narrow ridge trail that tunnels through purple rhododendron
to a hilltop opening in a veritable sea of trees. A second moderate
trail here is the Craggy Gardens nature trail. Nearby, a spur
road leads up Mount Mitchell. Your dog can make the final paved
ascent to the 6684-foot summit and stand on the highest point
of ground east of the Mississippi River. The mountain was named
for Dr. Elisha Mitchell, who fell to his death when trying to
prove the actual height of the peak.
The last major recreation area on the Parkway comes south of
Asheville at Mount Pisgah, once part of the 125,000-acre Biltmore
Estate owned by George W. Vanderbilt. Vanderbilt directed trail
building efforts across his vast property to provide access for
hunting and horseback riding. It was the first large tract of
managed forest land in America. The trail to summit views of
Mt.. Pisgah (5,721 feet) is a hardy 1.26-mile climb. While it
is not a prime destination for dog owners, you may want to make
arrangements to visit the Biltmore Estate, America's largest
private home. Construction on the French Renaissance-style mansion
began in 1889 and 250 rooms later was finished in 1895. Admission
to Biltmore Estate includes a self-guided tour of the non-occupied
parts of the house, access to the formal gardens and the Biltmore
Estate Winery.
The final gasps for canine hiking on the Blue Ridge Parkway before
entering Great Smoky Mountain National Park - where dogs are
not allowed on the trails - occur at Milepost 431 where Richard
Balsam's self-guiding trail wanders through the remnants of a
spruce-fir forest on the highest point on the Parkway (6,047
feet) and at Waterrock Knob at Mile 451.2. Here a mountain trail
leads to the knob and its panoramic, 4-state views of the Great
Smokies.
Allow yourself three to five days to explore the Blue Ridge Parkway
with your dog - a distance that could be covered in six hours
of driving on the Interstate. Even that may not be enough time.
Don't be surprised if you find yourself wanting to turn around
and do it all again.
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